We have put together basic concepts of formulas and methods
for making personal care products and color cosmetics. The ingredients are
indicated as functional categories only and the percentages reflect ranges
that are typically used.
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Bath Oil
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| Must Use
Ingredients |
Typical Use
Level |
Example
Ingredients |
| Plant Oils |
75-95% |
Meadowfoam Seed Oil, Almond Oil |
| Emollients |
3-10% |
Triglyceride, Mineral Oil |
| Antioxidants |
1-3% |
Vitamin E Tocopherol |
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| Optional Ingredients |
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| Surfactants/Emulsifiers |
1-3% |
Polyglyceryl Oleate |
| Fragrance |
0.1-1.0% |
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| Preservatives |
0.1-1.0% |
Tea Tree Essential Oil |
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| Method: Combine all ingredients in
a glass beaker and stir to make a homogenous solution. Add then
preservatives and fragrances. |
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Face Cream
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| Must Use
Ingredients |
Typical Use
Level |
Example
Ingredients |
| Distilled Water |
55-75% |
Water Mixed with Botanical Extracts |
| Emulsifiers |
2-6% |
CreamMaker Blend, Polysorbates |
| Emollients |
10-35% |
Plant Oils, Natural Butters |
| Thickeners |
0.1-2% |
Natural Waxes, Stearyl Palmitate |
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| Optional Ingredients |
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| Active Ingredients |
1-10% |
Anti-Aging Ingredients, Skin-Whitening Ingredients |
| Fragrance |
0.1-1.0% |
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| Preservatives |
0.1-1.0% |
Benzylalcohol-DHA |
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| Method:
Water phase: Thickener is dispersed in cold or warm water at 75-80°C
(depending on type of thickener) under stirring until a homogeneous
gel is formed. Combine then with separately mixed oil phase that
contains emulsifiers and emollients which have also been melted and
heated to the same temperature. Mix under intensive stirring until
emulsion is formed. Then mix gently while emulsion is being cooled.
Sensitive components like active ingredients, fragrances and
preservatives are added after the mixture has been cooled (40-30°C)
to keep their properties intact. |
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Hair Shampoo
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| Must Use
Ingredients |
Typical Use
Level |
Example
Ingredients |
| Distilled Water |
60-80% |
Water Mixed with Botanical Extracts |
| Surfactants |
15-30% |
Alkyl Sulfonate, Coco Betaine |
| Foam Stabilizers |
1-4% |
EDTA |
| Thickeners |
0.1-5% |
Xanthan Gum, Acrylate Copolymer |
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| Optional Ingredients |
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| Humectants |
1-5% |
Glycerin, Plant Oils |
| Hair Protective Ingredients |
1-5% |
Proteins, Provitamin B5 |
| Fragrance |
0.1-1.0% |
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| Preservatives |
0.1-1.0% |
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| Method:
Disperse hydrophilic thickener(s) in water under intensive stirring
until a homogeneous gel is formed. Then add the surfactants and the
other ingredients and mix gently until the product becomes
homogeneous. Oil-soluble ingredients (e.g plant oils) should be
added by pre-mixing them with a small amount of surfactants. |
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Hair Conditioner
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| Must Use
Ingredients |
Typical Use
Level |
Example
Ingredients |
| Distilled Water |
60-80% |
Water Mixed with Botanical Extracts |
| Surfactants |
2-5% |
Sulfosuccinate, Coco Betaine |
| Conditioning Surfactants (Quats) |
5-10% |
Polyquaternium-10, Behentrimonium |
| Thickeners |
0.1-5% |
Xanthan Gum, Acrylate Copolymer |
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| Optional Ingredients |
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| Pearlizers |
1-3% |
Glycol Stearate IP |
| Hair Protective Ingredients |
1-8% |
Proteins, Provitamin B5 |
| Fragrance |
0.1-1.0% |
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| Preservatives |
0.1-1.0% |
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| Method:
Combine water and thickeners in a glass beaker and mix thoroughly
with a hand mixer to make a gel-like solution. Add then the
surfactants and the other ingredients. Mix again gently until it
becomes homogenous. |
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Shaving Cream
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| Must Use
Ingredients |
Typical Use
Level |
Example
Ingredients |
| Distilled Water |
50-70% |
Water Mixed with Botanical Extracts |
| Surfactants/Emulsifiers |
5-20% |
Coco Glucose, Polysorbates |
| Humectants |
2-10% |
EDTA |
| Thickeners |
3-8% |
Stearic Acid |
| Neutralizing Agents |
Q.S. |
Triethanolamine |
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| Optional Ingredients |
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| Film Formers |
1-2% |
Proteins |
| Emollients |
2-5% |
Plant Oils, Lanolin Derivatives |
| Fragrance |
0.1-1.0% |
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| Preservatives |
0.1-1.0% |
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| Method:
Dissolve neutralizing agents in water and heat the water to 80°C.
Heat surfactants and consistency agents to 80°C. Mix slowly with
water phase. Keep under slow stirring during saponification ( during
60 minutes). Remove from heat. Active and sensitive ingredients
should be added after the mixture have been cooled (40°C) in order
to keep their properties intact. |
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Sun Protection Cream
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| Must Use
Ingredients |
Typical Use
Level |
Example
Ingredients |
| Distilled Water |
50-70% |
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| Emulsifiers |
3-10% |
Polysorbates, CreamMaker Mix |
| Emollients |
3-10% |
Plant Oils, Hydrocarbons (e.g. Isododecane) |
| Sunscreens |
1-10% |
Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide |
| Sunscreen Solvents |
5-10% |
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate |
| Thickeners |
0.5-2% |
Stearyl Palmitate, Cetyl Alcohol |
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| Optional Ingredients |
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| Antioxidants |
1-2% |
BHT, Edelweiss Extract |
| Humectants |
2-5% |
Glycerin, Propylene Glycol |
| Fragrance |
0.1-1.0% |
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| Preservatives |
0.1-1.0% |
Paraben-DU |
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| Method:
Sunscreens and UV filters have to be dispersed in suitable solvents
(pre-dispersions of mineral sunscreens are often available to
facilitate the procedure). Then, emollients, emulsifiers, oli-soluble
components are combined and melted at 75-80°C. Thickeners are
essential to prevent settling of pigments, they are dispersed
separately under stirring in water phase until homogeneous gel is
formed and heated to 80°C. The two mixtures are combined
progressively to form the emulsion. Mix under intensive stirring
until emulsion is formed. Then mix gently while emulsion is cooled.
Sensitive components like active ingredients, fragrances and
preservatives should be added after the mixture has been cooled
(40-30°C) in order to keep their properties intact. |
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Foundation Makeup
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| Must Use
Ingredients |
Typical Use
Level |
Example
Ingredients |
| Distilled Water |
60-80% |
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| Emulsifiers |
1-6% |
Stearic Acid, Sorbitan Stearate |
| Emollients |
8-20% |
Mineral Oil, Lanolin Alcohol |
| Thickeners |
0.1-3% |
Xanthan Gum, |
| Pigments |
2-10% |
Titanium Dioxide, Iron Oxides |
| Filling Powders |
4-10% |
Talc, Magnesium Stearate |
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| Optional Ingredients |
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| Antioxidants |
0.1-1.0% |
BHT |
| Humectants |
4-7% |
Glycerin |
| Fragrance |
0.1-1.0% |
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| Preservatives |
0.1-1.0% |
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| Method:
Disperse hydrophilic thickener(s) into warm water under intensive
stirring until a homogeneous gel is formed. Add other water-soluble
ingredients. Heat this phase to 80°C. Pulverize pigments and powders
and add them to the water phase under intensive stirring.
Emulsifiers, emollients & oli-soluble consistency factors,
constituting the oil phase, are mixed and heated to 80°C. This third
phase is added to the mixture (water phase and pigments) in order to
form the emulsion. Sensitive components like active ingredients,
special additives and preservatives are added after the mixture has
been cooled (40-30°C) to keep their properties intact. |
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Mineral Makeup
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| Must Use
Ingredients |
Typical Use
Level |
Example
Ingredients |
| Pigment Dispersion Agent |
2-5% |
Plant Oils, Mineral Oil |
| Pigments |
20-60% |
Pigment Blends or Iron Oxides & Titanium Dioxide |
| Special Pigments |
20-30% |
Micas |
| Filling Powders |
5-20% |
Bismuth Oxychloride, Talc, Mica Powder |
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| Optional Ingredients |
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| Vitamins |
0.1-1.0% |
Vitamin C L-ascorbic acid |
| Fragrance |
0.1-1.0% |
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| Preservatives |
0.1-1.0% |
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| Method:
Pigments and filling powders are thoroughly mixed with some oil in a
mortar to a very fine, homogenous powder (pigment particles must be
crushed to smaller particles to avoid streaks). Then, vitamins,
preservatives and other ingredients are added and mixed again. |
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Lipstick
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| Must Use
Ingredients |
Typical Use
Level |
Example
Ingredients |
| Consistency Ingredients |
20-55% |
Natural and Synthetic Waxes |
| Emollients |
25-70% |
Castor Oil, Mineral Oil |
| Pigments |
0.5-10% |
D&C Reds, Iron Oxides, Micas |
| Antioxidants |
0.1-1% |
BHT, Vitamin E Tocopherol |
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| Optional Ingredients |
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| Sunscreens |
0.1-2.0% |
OM-Cinnamate |
| Flavors |
0.1-1.0% |
Flavor Honey-Lemon |
| Fragrance |
0.1-1.0% |
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| Preservatives |
0.1-1.0% |
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| Method:
Waxes and emollients are mixed and melted until 80°C. Pigments may
often have to be premixed separately in liquid emollients mixture.
Premixed pigments dispersions should preferably be used, otherwise
pigment dispersion must be as homogeneous as possible. The mixture
can be added to the first hot phase or once the mix has cooled. Then
pour the warm mixture (temperature must be 10°C above its melting
point) into the appropriate molds. Molds should be placed into the
refrigerator. |
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Mascara
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| Must Use
Ingredients |
Typical Use
Level |
Example
Ingredients |
| Distilled Water |
10-40% |
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| Emulsifiers |
3-10% |
Glyceryl Stearate, Stearic Acid |
| Consistency Ingredients |
7-20% |
Natural and Synthetic Waxes |
| Thickeners |
1-2% |
HE-Cellulose |
| Emollients |
15-45% |
Mineral Oil, Hydrocarbons (e.g. Isoeicosane) |
| Pigments |
1-10% |
Carbon Black, Iron Oxides |
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| Optional Ingredients |
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| Water-Proofing Agents |
0.1-2.0% |
Dimethicone, Acrylate Copolymer |
| Active Ingredients |
0.1-2% |
Eye Lash Growth Enhancers |
| Fragrance |
0.1-1.0% |
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| Preservatives |
0.1-1.0% |
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| Method:
Waxes and emollients are mixed and melted until 80°C. Pigments have
to be added and dispersed in this oily mixture. Hydrophilic
thickeners like gums or synthetic polymers are dispersed in hot
water. Some of them require neutralization. This second phase is
heated and combined with the oily phase to form the emulsion. |
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